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 Pshaw! When Tree got out there she made it look as easy as ever. Wearing a black suit over rattan slides with a Chaos lighter (courtesy of stylist Charlotte Stockdale) holder swinging jauntily at her hip, her bangs still framing the face that entranced fashion’s original generation, she killed it. Now in her eighth generation, Tree is making a tentative return to the work. She has been doing a few shoots with Tim Walker, she said, adding that today marked her first foray into the live fray and also that, tantalisingly, she has just finished writing “my book.” That will be a rich source of excellent stories. As to how shows compare against when she was a regular, Tree offered: “Well, this is bigger than Ben-Hur. When I was doing shows everyone was crammed into a tiny room and there was a lot of anxiety, but this is so beautifully organized and calm. I was quite nervous coming here from London, but it turns out I know a lot of people and that has made it much easier. All this is extraordinary, really.” As is she: Hail to Penelope Tree.

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While we’re all wearing face masks, there's been a major emphasis on the eyes with not much lip-level attention. But Bora Aksu offered some much-needed inspiration when he sent models down the runway in sheer organza masks and transparent plastic face coverings with bright fuchsia lipstick underneath. Makeup artist Janeen Witherspoon intentionally blurred the edges of the lived-in lip and sent a message: It doesn't have to be perfect, ever—but especially now. The "clown-bright" clothes at Vivienne Westwood translated to a distinctly '80s beauty feel. One of the look book's stars, Isamaya Ffrench (who also oversaw makeup) channeled a 2020 Cyndi Lauper with fire engine red lipstick and her platinum blonde lengths crimped by hairstylist Lyndell Mansfield.For two decades and counting, the Fendi Baguette has been among the most iconic It bags for stylish urban dwellers. But for Fendi's spring 2021 show, hairstylist Sam McKnight saw the Italian house's baguette and raised it a roll—a "Fendi roll" to be more precise. "Continuing the unexpected elegance of last season, Fendi’s 'lady girls’ hair was again upswept, only it was into '30s inspired rolls in a myriad of shapes and sizes," explains McKnight. In researching the decade, the pro landed on a photograph of one of the most famous women of the time, Merle Oberon, who was the first biracial actress to be nominated for a Best Actress Oscar. (ICYMI: Oberon's story, including the struggles of having to hide her Anglo-Indian origin due to industry racism, was recently highlighted in Make Me Over, the eight-part companion series to Hollywood-history podcast You Must Remember This.)