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 The 90-some looks that walked the Metropol runway were less of a lesson in Sicily’s patchwork past than they were a primer in Dolce & Gabbana’s own history, of course. The hourglass dresses and sharply-cut jackets pieced together from squares of brocade, chiffon, georgette, and cotton, among other materials, have long numbered among the duo’s can’t-fail silhouettes. No one looking at this collection would mistake the shirred minidress in a mashup of polka dots and florals or the bustiers and bra tops in checkerboard black-and-white for anybody other than D&G. Their command of their signatures is key to their success.

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While Brown had always been surrounded by fashion, she didn’t start learning about the business aspect until she moved to New York from Paris and started managing bands, including The Moldy Peaches. Her aha clothing moment occurred when she was working with the girl group Telepathy. “I started to understand a bit more about how fashion is advertised. People were contacting me and they were designers and stylists saying, ‘We’re going to send you this, we’re going to send you that, put it on the girls, like have them wear it onstage,’” says Brown. “It was the first time that I was really looking at fashion as something that could be promoted as a product in a different way [than in magazines].”