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 In that video recording, Dolce and Gabbana remembered a 1993 show in which they used similar patchworking techniques, only for different ends. That long-ago collection was inspired by the bohemian 1970s, a popular reference in the early ’90s. No hippie flashback, this outing is attuned to the present day. There’s no way around how hard this COVID-19 year has been for fashion brands—from creative leads and CEOs on down to pattern makers and seamstresses. Like their crochet collection of last February—which looks more and more prescient in the rearview mirror—this one puts the emphasis on fatta a mano, on Italian craftsmanship.

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White Elk, who is Oglala Lakota, is a newcomer to the modeling world. They only entered the industry this summer, after being discovered by IMG Models. The Vogue Italia cover happened after the publication came across Denali’s photos on IMG’s social channels. “It was a dream come true, to be honest,” says White Elk of the opportunity (they were photographed for the cover this summer in New York City). “[Looking back], I feel like I should have been even more excited, because it’s such a monumental thing to have accomplished. I didn’t know what to expect, but I enjoyed it, because everything [about the cover project] was based with a purpose.”